01
The
Daria
The motif for this dress came to me from watching birds and their feathers. We created a toile of 90 satin organza layers, which was then draped around the corset. Worn here by its namesake, the inimitable Daria Zhemkova, the dress almost takes on a sense of flight.
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The Daria
02
The
Garbo
Just because Greta Garbo has always been the most beautiful, mysterious icon I know. This pattern has evolved over the past few seasons—fifteen yards of striped lame chiffon, solid chiffon, organza, charmeuse and tulle cascading dramatically.
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03
The
Robin
A Solstiss chantilly lace coat with embroidered sequins, beads, and marabou feathers over a chiffon bias sheath with lace insets. Created in honor for my wife and partner, the woman who inspires me every day.
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The Robin
04
The
Jolynn
Named after a beautiful woman I’ve worked with for many years, the Jolynn is long and languid. Cut on the bias, its velvet fabric fall gently into a deep cowl with two-tone godets in the back.
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05
The
Linnet
Created in honor of a friend of many years, Andrea, who was always a bit of a sylph. Striped lamè chiffon flows over a tightly fitted corset to create an airy gown that I think of as the younger cousin of the Kahani.
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Begin with what inspires you, and let the design become what it was always meant to be.
06
The
Eliza
My Fair Lady has always been one of my favorite pieces of theater, so I created this silk organza gown as an homage. The artisanal technique, which we call the honeycomb, is based on paper lanterns I first saw while working in Tokyo.
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07
The
Valentina
A tribute to a dressmaker who I’ve worked with for nearly my entire career. The deceptively simple silhouette is composed of 39 pieces of fabric in four different materials and three different hues.
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The Valentina
08
The
Elodie
Long, lean and elegant, this bias crepe column is named for a statuesque model we met in France. The bare back and belt of singed scales add intrigue to an otherwise simple silhouette.
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09
The
Julie
Possibly my proudest achievement as a dressmaker, the Julia is an off-the-shoulder asymmetric count composed of no fewer than 155 distinct pieces. It’s a brilliant Gestalt effect—all of the components joining together to create something greater than the sum of its parts.
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10
The
Carolina
Carolina, where my family is from, has always been a home of sorts no matter where I’m living. This dress honors that history with the most minimal of satin columns on our classic X-bias pattern. From every angle, there is a perfect balance of drape and simplicity.
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All of my sketching, sewing, draping, and fitting is done by hand in my New York studio.
11
The
Nadja
In honor of the great Nadja Auerman and her luminescence in Avedon’s Mr. and Mrs. Comfort editorial in the New York Times. Starburst pleats bring to life the interplay of shadow and light on silver mercury liquid lamé, draped over a longline corset.
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12
The
Tatiana
Named after a woman who has worked for me for many years, the Tatiana seems understated at first glance, but the details draw you in. Swarovski rocks adorn the neckline, accenting an iridescent French chiffon gown.
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13
The
Helene
An homage to one of my oldest friends in the business, the Helene is made of deep blue crepe-back satin, contrasting with bright flashes from Swarovski crystal straps.
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14
The
Kahani
One of this collection’s showstoppers, the Kahani is a super lux liquid lamé crepe with a loose drape over our classic corset. Incredibly simple, yes, but incredibly hard to execute.
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15
The
Michelle
I named this dress after the first woman to wear it, since she truly brought the vision to life. A minimal flow of French chiffon on an X-bias pattern pairs elegantly with a dramatic back drape, stunning on her frame.
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I learned early on that coloring outside the lines, and in the wrong colors, is just fine.
16
The
Susanna
I first created this gown for an amazing woman named Susanna, and keeping her name for the dress was simply a natural fit. Ivory French silk cassimir folds into geometric pleats to create an asymmetrical structure as strong and beautiful as she is.
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17
The
Samara
Sometimes the best designs come from mistakes. This gown, for example, evolved from making corrections to a previous one. As I was trying to adjust that pattern, I came up with the idea for this intricate spiral of technical pleats.
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18
The
Paris
New York will always be my favorite city, but Paris is a close second. This sensual, fitted silhouette features a single dramatic drape in crepe satin, along with a bit of sparkle to honor The City of Lights.
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19
The
Galadriel
This dramatic mermaid dress captures a sense of strength and complexity in every detail. An inset stretch corset breathes life into precisely constructed layers of French silk cassimir.
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20
The
Natalie
The Natalie is all about juxtaposition and harmony. The foiled Italian satin has almost the feel of leather—a stark contrast to the young, sleek, dramatic silhouette.
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21
The
Nautilus
I’ve always been fascinated with geometry in nature. This dress, made of duo-tone silk satin organza, is a perfect example of that. Its intricate pleating mimics the shape of a chambered nautilus.
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Photographer:Olivia Graham
Videographer/Editor:Cécile Delepière
Model:Daria Zhemkova